The Old Quarter in Hanoi is the oldest continuously developed area of Vietnam and has a history that spans more than 2000 years. You will not have experienced north Vietnam until you have visited the 36 streets of the Old Quarter – located between Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the restored sword) and Long Bien Bridge.

History & Heritage
The Old Quarter started out as an alligator infested swamp. It later evolved into a cluster of villages made up of houses on stilts, which was later unified by the Chinese who built ramparts around their headquarters and the area was named ‘Protected South’ by the Chinese.

When the Vietnamese gained independence in the 11th century, King Ly Thai built his palace at the Old Quarter area and the various collection of tiny workshops which clustered around the palace walls slowly evolved into craft cooperatives or guilds. Skilled craftsmen migrated to the Old Quarter, and artisan guilds were formed by craftsman originating from the same village, performing similar services.

Because inhabitants from each street came from the same village, the various streets started to developed a homogenous look. Storekeepers were taxed based on the width of their storefront, so the houses started to get taller, longer and narrower, with storage and living spaces being moved to the back. Typical measurements for such “tube houses” were about 3m wide and 60m long.

The influx of craftsmen from afar also brought with them their religious practices, each bringing their own temples, pagodas and communal houses. Each guild typically has one or two religious structures honouring its own patron saint or founder, therefore on each street, there is at least one temple. Today, many of these temples have been converted into shops and living quarters but some of the old building’s religious roots can be recognised by the architecture on their roofs.

Main Streets within the Old Quarter

Most of the streets within the Old Quarter starts with the word “Hang” which means Merchandise or shop in Vietnamese. The streets are named after their product, service or location.

Hang Bac Street
One of the oldest streets in Vietnam, dating back to the 13th century, ‘Bac’ means silver, aptly named as this street started as a silver ingot factory under the reign of Le Thanh Tong (1469-1497). Village people, called silver casters, were brought in to cast silver bars and coins. At the turn of the 18th century, Hang Bac street took on more varied functions, attractive jewellery makers and money changers. Money exchangers in particular thrived, since in the old days, paper money was not used. Instead, currency consisted of zinc, bronze and silver coins and when merchants needed a large amount of money for business transactions, they would exchange the heavy metal bars at Hang Bac. Today, one can find a large number of jewellery makers, from engravers, smelters to polishers, gold-leaf makers etc. 

Hang Dao Street
Another of Vietnam’s oldest streets, Hang Dao serves as the main axis running from north to south of the Old Quarter, effectively cutting the Old Quarter into half. At the beginning of the 15th century, this street was the location of the silk dyer guild from the Hai Hung province, which specialises in a deep pink dye. ‘Dao’ refers to the pink of apricot blossoms, which are symbolic of the Vietnamese Lunar New Year. By the 18th century, the dye colours diversified according to demand. During French colonial rule, Hang Dao street as a center for the trading of silk products. Today, the street specialises in ready made clothing.

Dong Xuan Street / Market Street
This street originally belonged to two villages – the even numbered houses belonged to the Nhiem Trung village and the odd numbered houses to the Hau Tuc village. The Dong Xuan market, Vietnam’s oldest and largest market, occupies half of Dong Xuan Street. Every Friday to Sunday, make shift stalls are set up around Dong Xuan market selling a variety of produce from ready made clothing to shoes, souvenirs, bags, handicrafts, etc.

The streets today still reflect the specialisations of the old guilds, although a few of them remain exclusively in their old commerce. Handicraft production is rapidly being replaced by restaurants, repair shops, travel agencies, banks, and mini hotels. Historic buildings have become mass living spaces and schools as population increases. Once a precious legacy from Hanoi’s ancient past, the rapid changes within the Old Quarter is today threatening the charm and history ambience of this lively district.

Getting around
The best way to see the Old Quarter is to walk. Walking allows you to take in the sights at your own pace and discover the little hidden treasures along the way. Depending on your itinerary, you will need at least half a day exploring the Old Quarter. Allow one full day if you intend to visit the Old Church, Lake Hoan Kiem and the Opera House.

Taxis are also available and getting around via a taxi is extremely affordable. Taxis cost about VND25,000 to VND40,000 (USD$1-2) if you want to get from the Old Quarter to further afield eg. The Opera House.

Cyclos are single motorcycles that offer a cheap ride through the city. Be wary of touts and always negotiate your fare in advance. A one way trip within the Old Quarter is usually about VND10,000 (USD$1).

Tourist trishaws are also available for rent on per hour basis, costing from VND80,000 per hour if you do not mind the more touristy approach. Your cyclist will also know the various local sights and can be a good option as a guide to bring you around. As usual, try to bargain from the initial price quoted, tourist prices tend to be 30-40% higher.

What to see
An ambient stroll through the Old Quarter promises a discovery of the hustle and bustle this part of the city has to offer, from roadside stalls, to fruit peddlars, mobile shops and the various industries, the Old Quarter never sleeps.

Dien Dam Gallery
4b Dinh Liet Street, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi, Vietnam
Tel +84 4 3825 9881
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Website: www.diendam-gallery.com
A quaint photo and painting gallery belonging to Dien Dam, a local photographer with very good perspectives and photography of various places in Vietnam.

St Joseph Cathedral
Located near the French quarter area, west of Hoan Kiem lake, St Joseph Cathedral has elaborate altars and neo-Gothic architecture. Several masses are held throughout the day and during weekends. Do note, no photography is allowed inside the cathedral.

Hoan Kiem Lake
Known as the ‘Lake of the Restored Sword’, Hoan Kiem lake is located in the historical center of Vietnam, near the Old Quarter and is a major scenic spot of locals and tourists alike. Key attractions at the lake include the Tortoise tower (Thap Rua) standing on a small island near the centre of the lake. At the northern end lies Jade Island, on which the Ngoc Son temple (Jade Mountain Temple) stands. Jade Island is connected by the Huc Bridge (The Huc meaning Morning Sunlight Bridge). In the early mornings, locals throng Hoan Kiem lake for various forms of exercise, including aerobics, tai chi, etc. By nightfall, it is a popular hang out for lovebirds and tourists.

Where to stay
Hanoi Gecko Hotel
11A Trung Yen Lane, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi Vietnam
Tel: +84 4 3926 4120 / 4121 / 4122
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Website: hanoigeckohotel.com
Price Range: USD$30 – USD$60

Hanoi Deluxe Hotel
28 Bat Su Street, Hoan Kiem district, Hanoi, Vietnam
Tel: +84 4 38284036 / 3923 3609
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Website: hanoideluxehotel.com
Price Range: USD$25 – USD$40

Where to eat
Cha Ca La Vong Restaurant
14 Cha Ca Street
Tel: +84 4 3825 3929
The original Cha Ca restaurant serving only one dish since 1871, a secret recipe blend of fish, spices and vegetables cooked in butter, olive oil and spices. Absolutely delicious although the portions could be bigger.
Price Range: VND120,000 (USD$10)

Charmy Restaurant
13 Hang Dieu Street
Tel: +84 4 3923 3937
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A relatively cheap restaurant that has a clean and good ambience and decent food. Try the Vietnamese spring rolls!
Price range: from VND40,000 (USD$2)